Day 6–Florence

The day commenced with breakfast overlooking the streets of Florence from my hotel. It was going to be another hot one, may be not quite as hot as it has been, but still warm. So the plan was to get an early start, beat the crowds, heat and head off to see the statue of David housed in della d’Adacemia, just north of the Duomo.

As you can see, I was not the only one with this idea, so when I arrived at around 8.15am (opening time) the queue was already a few hundred metres longs.

 

Turns out there are two queues, one for reserved tickets and one for non-reserved (me). So I joined the masses in line awaiting my turn to enter.

 

It took about an hour or so to gain entry but since it was in the shade it wasn’t too bad.

This is of course what everyone has come to see, Michelangelo's statue of David.

It is the centre piece of the museum at end of a long hall once you enter.

As you can also see it is the major draw card of the museum. You kinda wonder what Michelangelo would think of all the interest his work still generates today.

The della d’Adacemia has other exhibits including sculptures and

artworks. In all I spent about 90 minutes working my way through everything inside.

My thoughts were then to try the Uffuzi but again with a non-reserved ticket the wait was going to be over two hours of not only waiting but also standing around. Thus, I decided lunch was a better option and I headed back to my hotel to cool down before joining the line for the Duomo.

On the return trip there was a huge golden turtle in the square as you can see above. Not something you expect to see. Luckily, I had my camera handy.

 

After cooling down I returned to the Duomo and joined the queue for entry. The good thing about the main Duomo entry is that it is free, you just have to line up. Luckily, the line was on the shady side of the structure and I only had to wait about 30 minutes.

Although the Duomo is huge it is quite bare inside. Visitors don’t have complete access to all areas but there is enough to get a really good idea.

There is not a huge amount to see here but glad I did line up to check this one off my ‘to-do’ list (being the fourth largest church in the world apparently).

 

If you want access to the top of the dome or the bell tower of the Duomo then you not only need to line up (in the sun) but also pay a fee. Not for me this time so, after a recommendation from a neighbour in the Duomo queue I headed south across the river to Saint Minato al Monte.

On the way I took a break from the sun at Saint Croce but as there was a paid line for entry I decided to continue on.

There is a very steep climb once you are across the river to Piazzle Michelangiolo which has sweeping views of the whole of Florence, and something I’d highly recommend is worth the effort (you can of course also take a bus).

From there you need to continue climbing to reach Saint Miniate si Monte.

but the views continue to get better.

After a final flight of stairs you enter one of the most unique churches I have been in.

The lower entry level appears to be for the congregation, while the upper level is for the alter. Directly below the alter is a crypt, which contains a holy relic of the martyr St. Miniatus is on display.

Pictures of the crypt are not permitted but you are free to photography elsewhere.

Although it is fair way from the city centre and up a very steep hill I am really glad I followed the recommendation and came to have a look. It is really worth a visit as it is a very different structure with many striking features that I haven’t seen elsewhere.

From there I headed back across the city back to my hotel to call it a day with the sites of Florence. All that left to do was to grab another magnificent Italian dinner, topped off with a grande gelato and prepare for tomorrows transfer to Modena.

Day 5–Florence

A casual start to the day with breakfast and then check out followed by a short taxi ride back to Siena railway station.

Check the board for my train and spent the rest of the time reading and talking to some other tourists also waiting on the train.

As departure time approached my fellow travellers informed me that that train to Florence had changed tracks and I’d need to make haste to another platform.

I jump aboard with plenty of time to spare and with plenty of time to spare and was pleasantly surprised to find that this regional train was air-conditioned! Hallelujah! Praise the Lord. No complimentary sauna today folks.

The train was much more crowded than the one I caught a few days ago to Siena but there was still plenty of room. So I grabbed a seat and settled in for the trip.

The trip was uneventful, with even the conductor making no fuss about my pre-booed ticket. Achievement unlocked!

Having been to Florence station previously I knew where to exit and headed from the station into the blazing Italian sun for the very short walk to my hotel.

I checked in and then settled in for my regular afternoon snooze to avoid the heat.

First stop was check out the Duomo or as it is clearly also known ‘tourist central’. Florence reminds me of an earlier trip I made to Venice in that fact that the place is just overwhelmed by tourists.

Now I know this is the height of the tourist season and Florence is high on everyone’s must see list but honestly for me, the sheer number of tourists ruins the experience for me totally.

 

Not only is the place full of tourists but all the shops are upmarket boutiques catering to this market. The place is also full of street vendors hocking all kinds of wares to these same tourists who think they are getting a bargain.Sigh.

I continued on through the throng and the heat trying to tick off as many sites as I could this afternoon.

From the Uffuzi to the

To the Ponte Vecchio was just wall to wall tourists.

I continued walking the streets snapping shots until it all got too hot for me and I headed back to the hotel for a break.

Around 7pm I ventured out once again to enjoy another great Italian dinner and then I called it a night.

I’m glad I’m not going to be here long because with the heat and the sheer number of people I’m pretty sure I’d go crazy. Given that tomorrow is Sunday and the Duomo is closed for half the day I think I’ll head to the Galleria dell’Academia where the status of David is, mainly because it opens early. From there I might do a ‘jump-on-jump-off’ bus tour to catch the main sights before heading to the Duomo in the afternoon and no doubt standing in a queue for hours.

Let’s see what pans out tomorrow.

 

 

Day 4–Siena

Judging by the maximum forecast temperature of 33+ degree C for today, I decide this was now beyond my tolerance to wear long pants. I therefore broke out the shorts and headed off for breakfast.

With sustenance now complete I hit the streets early. Most places don’t open until 10.30am but I thought that I’d at least look at a few places before I battled the throne of summer tourists.

I passed through the Campo again, which you can see is relatively deserted. The main occupants where an army of swallows.

I did try and capture some of them in the above picture but it simply doesn’t do justice to the sheer number of birds accelerating all around the square, calling to each other. If it was night, you be sure they were bats. Interestingly, later on during the day, once all the tourists arrive, the swallows have moved on to less crowded digs.

The next stop was Provenzano’s church as shown above. Which wasn’t yet open. The interesting thing I found about this church was the stone used in construction. Bleached white in colour, which stands out from most of the other structures in Siena which are typically an earthy brown/red.

Next stop was San Francesco square and basilica. Luckily, the basilica was open and there was no one inside. Downside was that photos are not allowed.

The basilica is pretty basic and perhaps somewhat ‘cold’ as it only had a single occupant currently. It is however amazing how big the place is and how the ceiling is. There are a number of large paintings on either side as your move towards the alter and then a number of smaller chapels on either side of the mail alter.

Interestingly, this basilica is home to the Eucharist Miracle of Siena which is something I didn’t know before visiting this church.

With the clock approaching 10am it was time to head back to the Campo and for the tower or Torre del Mangia which stands about 80 metres and height and can be climbed via stairs.

The advice before you start climbing is to only take a camera and be prepared for about 400 steps in a pretty enclosed space. What is not probably mentioned is the fact that you come down the same you go up, this means you need to negotiate other on the stairs as you pass. Luckily for me, being one of the first into the tower for the day it just meant plodding up the stairs.

The first level you emerge on provides sweeping view of Siena and the surrounds.

Another flight of stairs takes you an other 20 metres or so right to the very top where the bell is.

Here you get a real perspective of just how ‘compacted’ old Siena is, with buildings pretty much adjacent to each other.

I descended from the top,making room for a few people on their way up. Some people just don’t seem to appreciate that 400+ stairs is fairly strenuous.

 

I then headed into the Civic Museum which was also included in the price of my ticket. Unfortunately, photography was once again forbidden here, although I did see some people merrily snapping away, even using a flash! Damm tourists!

With the temperature rising and the tourist throngs building and given it was approaching midday I decided it would be a good time to take a break from the heat, so I took the short walk back to my hotel.

It being so central makes it a very handy place to visit multiple times during the day. I had hoped that my room would be made up so I could take a shower, but alas that wasn’t to be. I therefore cooled down and had a snooze in the lobby.

I then headed back to the Duomo and the other sites in and around this area.

You need to but tickets to the Duomo from an office not far away but a little bit od advice, don’t leave buying tickets too late in the afternoon as in summer the sun ends up beating down on you standing the queue. Get in early, even if you decide to take in the locations later in the day.

Like all great cathedrals, the Duomo of Siena is something to behold. The most striking aspect is the striping of the structure.

It is truly an impressive structure with so much space.

In an alcove off the to the side is the Piccolomini library with stunning examples of artwork on the walls and ceiling as well as manuscripts that line the wall.

Off to the left is the chapel of St John the Baptist.

 which also contains the holy relic of his right arm presented by Pope Pius II in 1464 to the church.

From the cathedral I proceeded to the crypt.

and then to the Baptistery, both at the lower levels of the Duomo.

 

It was then back to the main Duomo for a tour over the top of the structure where you can peer down from the dome.

You also get access to external areas where you again get some great views of Siena at roof level.

You then move across the top of the altar where you get a full view of the length of the structure.

You then travel back towards the front of the church and finish off with a view down the length from just above the entrance.

From there you wind your back down to the ground. All in all a very worthwhile tour that I’d recommend.

It was now mid afternoon and things were really starting to heat up so I decided to again head back to the comfort of my air conditioned hotel and escape the fierce Tuscan summer sun.

I headed back onto the street at 7pm with the heat of the day still radiating through the streets. I headed to the Campo for a final look, a gelato and finally a decent large coffee (an Americano as they say here).

Tomorrow I brave the heat and the Italian railways again as I head to Florence (Firenze). All in all I have enjoyed my time here in Siena. It is a very beautiful and historic place. The view of the surrounds is amazing along with some pretty unique places in the town centre. It has been a little disappointing at how hot it has been, exacerbated no doubt by the lack of a cooling breeze. The best times to venture out is early but unfortunately most places don’t open until it is becoming quite hot.

None the less, I’ve been very lucky with the fine weather as well as a great hotel. Having it so close by has really made it easy to take regular breaks during the day and avoid being totally worn out. The journey continues tomorrow.

Day 3–Siena

After falling asleep while only ‘resting my eyes’ I didn’t get the uninterrupted sleep that I needed for my early start this morning from Malta.

I met my driver in the reception of the hotel at about 5.45am and we headed to the airport. The interesting thing is that even at this hour in Malta things are getting warm and there is a surprising amount of traffic on the road.

After tipping my driver for this trip (even though I really feel I shouldn’t have to but it does help the local economy after all) I headed into the terminal to book for my flight.

Bags checked, I headed through security and then through the duty free before emerging at the departures terminal. Since I had missed breakfast at the hotel, I grabbed a snack and come coffee before settling in for the two hour or so wait for my flight.

After passing through the gate I boarded the shuttle bus across the tarmac to the flight and took my seat on the short Air Malta to Rome flight.

About 90 minutes later we arrived in Rome and where once again shuttled by bus across the tarmac to the terminal.

The bags from the flight seem to take an inordinate amount of time to appear. Many others from the flight who were also standing around were getting pretty agitated by the delay but eventually they finally appeared and I was out the arrivals gate looking for my transfer.

 

You feel like such an idiot going up to each person holding a name board and checking whether it has your name. The secret I’ve found is that you need to be systematic in working through the vast array of people holding a sign and looking for someone.

 

Luckily, this time I found my name on a long list someone was holding up and soon had a driver and a ride to Rome Termini for my train trip to Siena via Florence.

 

One really hasn’t experienced ‘civilisation’ fully until you’ve experienced Rome traffic and it is something I’ve never experienced anywhere else on earth. Rome residents probably consider it normal but the concept of actual road rules has a very, very loose definition from what I can determine. However, it is a wonder of the modern world you need to experience at least once so it’ll make you appreciate how ‘good’ your home town traffic is!

I arrived at Rome Termini and took up position with my back to the wall and where I could see the departures board and any pick pockets. The weather was quite hot and there had just been a burst of rain so Rome was quickly becoming a sauna.

 

After about a 30 minute wait my designated train was finally displaying a departure track so I headed off in that direction. Problem was that the entrance to my track was undergoing work so I needed to enter from an adjacent track, which meant getting my paper train ticket out to show at the barrier. Painful.

 

I located my car and climbed aboard. I had booked a business coach which meant more space and easier access. After a brief battle to find my seat I deposited my luggage in the overhead rack and settled in for the trip.

 

Today was a day with a lot of moving parts. Airport transfer, flight, airport transfer, train, change, another train, taxi and so on. I was happy that things were working out.

 

The next challenge was going to be convincing the conductor that I had a valid train ticket, which I did have. When you pre-book from overseas it never seems to go smoothly with conductors. In this case I initially tried to show him a PDF copy on my iPad but that seemed to flummox him so had to revert back to the trusty print out, which I had kept handy as a backup.

 

After some extra attention to the ticket he finally handed it back to me while not throwing off the train. Achievement unlocked!

The weather had heated up and the sun was out as we sped through the Italian country side, next stop Florence.

The train from Rome had departed a little late which meant the arrival into Florence was also a little late. This left about 10 minutes or so to get off the arrival platform and find the departing train to Siena.

Seems easy enough eh? But this is Italy mind you. My train was scheduled to depart from platform 3. I checked the platforms behind me. 8, 7, 6, 5 but nothing lower. So I followed past platform 5 and found a laneway through to platforms 1 and 2 but where the hell is platform 3?? I could hear the clock ticking away and my stress levels increasing. I did another sweep of the platform but could find no mention of platforms 3 and 4! They have to be here somewhere.

Admitting defeat, I headed to the ticket office and asked a station employee who rolled their eyes at me and said platform 3 was at the end of platform 5. Ah ha! That laneway I had walked through basically had platforms 3 and 4 at the end.

I raced up platform 5 and discovered a training waiting there ready for departure. I still wasn’t sure this was the right train so I asked some inside whether the train went to Siena. I received an ‘I have no idea’ in an American accent which didn’t help much, so I continued a little further up and jumped on board. I really need to speak to a local not some foreigner I thought.

I still had a feeling this was not the right train as the automatic doors closed behind me. I opened the doors again and looked at the timetable board for the current train I was on and saw that it was in fact the incorrect train number. Damm, wrong train I thought as I hopped off. This train must be on platform 4.

That mean through a process of elimination (d’oh) the train on the very next platform must be the right one. I saw a conductor waiting on the platform so I asked whether this train went to Siena. I received exactly the same eye rolling as before but confirmed it was indeed the right train. Phew. All aboard.

This train to Siena is a regional train and very downmarket from the high speed one I caught from Rome. In these trains you basically sit anywhere and you don’t the luxury of air-conditioning and in this case, even windows that opened. All aboard the sweat box to Siena. 

I sat back and watched the countryside roll past while enjoying a complimentary sauna.

Luckily, I didn’t have to battle any conductors about my legitimacy to be on this train by justifying my paperwork.

After about an hour or so we arrived in Siena and I grabbed a taxi to my hotel. This proved an interesting experience as the driver manoeuvred through the the tight streets of the city centre while dodging the constant throng of tourists. In the sweaty mood I was now in I don’t think I would have been as patient if I was behind the wheel.

Finally, bathed in a pool of sweat, I arrived at my hotel and booked in. I enjoyed a refreshing shower and then caught up on some rest, knowing that the twilight extended well into the evening.

After a refreshing nap, I headed back onto the humid streets towards the centre to take in a few sights before finding some where to eat.

First stop was the Campo, where I checked out the climbing of the clock tower (tomorrow’s assignment) as well as taking a full walk around.

They are beginning to prepare the square for the famous horse race held here (Palio de Siena).

Next stop, on the return journey to the hotel, was the Duomo, where I was just in time to hear the tower chime for the top of the hour.

Unfortunately, on the short walk back to the hotel I didn’t find anywhere to eat that really took my fancy so I headed to the hotel restaurant which overlooks the picturesque valley.

I am the first one to admit that food for me is purely functional but I gotta say the food here is spectacular. Dinner was magnificent and really makes me appreciate being in Italy. It really makes an impact how different the cuisine tastes here.

As the twilight finally began to recede (at about 10pm) and still sweating thanks to the temperature, I put another day under my belt and headed to my room for some well earned air-conditioning and rest. Most sites don’t open till after 10am tomorrow so a day finally to relax and get some sleep. Apart from the heat, I’m looking forward to exploring Siena in more depth tomorrow.