Today’s trick was again to make all the transfers on the Italian rail network and finally end up in Verona while starting in Modena.
I arrived at the Modena train station with plenty of time up my sleeve but as I have come to learn, you wait as long as possible near the departure board to see which platform you train will depart from. Just because it says one platform currently doesn’t mean that it can’t be changed and you don’t want to be stranded on the wrong platform wondering why your train hasn’t arrived.
With about 15 minutes to go, and with not delays on train arrival showing, I took the underground passage to my designated platform.
Soon the designated train number appeared on the platform which confirmed I was in the right place. Always a worry until they actually show your train on the platform you are actually waiting on.
Being a Saturday the platform was pretty crowded and as soon as the train doors opened there was a mad scramble by the locals to get aboard and find a seat. Happy to let this transpire I simply waited an opportunity to board as I only need to go two stops.
I had a booking for a first class carriage but since I was already standing outside a second class carriage I figured it would be easier just to jump aboard and stand near the doors since it was only about a 30 minute trip to Bologna Centrale. I wasn’t about to hike back down the platform looking for the first class carriages.
The train shortly pulled away from the station and began hurtling towards Bologna. Unfortunately, this regional train was again one devoid of air conditioning so I basically stood and sweated for the whole trip. Not exactly my idea of enjoyment, but hey, that the summer Italian experience I have learned.
I had about 15 minutes to make my connection to Verona if all went according to plan. After a nerve wracking 10 minute delay just outside Bologna, I was finally on the platform and looking for my connection. I knew it would be downstairs somewhere.
Luckily, I was able to locate a departures board and headed to the appropriate platform, through what was now familiar territory. This station is pretty big but luckily it is signed very well making finding directions pretty straight forward as long as you keep your eyes open.
Turns out that my train was delayed by 35 minutes! This was by far the worst I had experienced in my travels so far. I thanked my lucky stars that the delay was not on my initial train from Modena or otherwise I would have missed my connection.
I went down to the nominated platform at the original departure time just to make sure I didn’t miss the train because I had overlooked something or misread the departures board. When it didn’t arrive, as expected, I returned to the concourse level to watch the board to ensure that the platform was not changed.
Sure enough, about 30 minutes later the train appeared on the board for the platform and I headed down to locate my carriage position on the platform. This time I was to be in carriage number 3.
The train arrived late as expected and I jumped aboard and located my seat. I was allocated a window seat with another seat to my right but thanks to the wonders of Italian train travel and people wanting to sit together in different seats, I ended up in a single seat on the other side of the carriage, which was fine by me but confused the hell out of the conductor when ticket checking time arrived. I let the couple who caused all the hassle to explain it to the conductor in Italian while I just nodded like the good tourist I was.
We sped on towards Verona across rather flat country side arriving in about an hour after depart Bolonga. I was soon off the train, out of the station and on the streets of Verona.
Now I could have taken the option to grab a taxi, which would have been easier in this heat, but instead I decided to hoof it to get a better feel for the city. Thus, I pulled out my phone, fired up Google Maps and I was off.
After only one wrong turn along the way I managed to locate my hotel which was hidden away in the back streets.
The room was pretty pokey and Spartan but it didn’t really bother me all that much as they also have free WiFi which I value above all else. I powered on the air conditioning and took my customary afternoon nap to avoid the rest of the afternoon heat.
I went out at about 6pm to have a walk around and find something to eat. I thought that I’d check out the main attraction of the town at least, the Arena, so I headed in that direction.
However, along the way I stumbled across Verona’s other most famous site, Juliet’s balcony. It wasn’t hard to miss being totally overrun with tourists.
I followed the signs to the Arena and ended up going down what appeared to be the main pedestrian mall in Verona. It was nicely paved, full of people and the typical up market shops catering to well to do Americans and Europeans.
At the end of this street I emerge onto the Arena which felt the ‘centre’ of the city. It is Roman style amphitheatre surround by a paved square, then ringed by restaurants. To9 me, very much in style of the Campo in Siena.
Plenty of interesting things to see in this area.
I continued south through the gates looking for a place to eat.
After a good pizza and coffee I headed back to my hotel to cool down again. Even at 8pm it is still exceptionally warm. The main reason I think is that there is no cooling breeze.
There probably isn’t a huge amount of must see items here and I’ll decided whether a hop on, hop off bus is a good idea. I however think that just walking around as I have done previously is going to be the best bet.
