Saturday, June 25, 2016

Day 4–Siena

Judging by the maximum forecast temperature of 33+ degree C for today, I decide this was now beyond my tolerance to wear long pants. I therefore broke out the shorts and headed off for breakfast.

With sustenance now complete I hit the streets early. Most places don’t open until 10.30am but I thought that I’d at least look at a few places before I battled the throne of summer tourists.

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I passed through the Campo again, which you can see is relatively deserted. The main occupants where an army of swallows.

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I did try and capture some of them in the above picture but it simply doesn’t do justice to the sheer number of birds accelerating all around the square, calling to each other. If it was night, you be sure they were bats. Interestingly, later on during the day, once all the tourists arrive, the swallows have moved on to less crowded digs.

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The next stop was Provenzano’s church as shown above. Which wasn’t yet open. The interesting thing I found about this church was the stone used in construction. Bleached white in colour, which stands out from most of the other structures in Siena which are typically an earthy brown/red.

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Next stop was San Francesco square and basilica. Luckily, the basilica was open and there was no one inside. Downside was that photos are not allowed.

The basilica is pretty basic and perhaps somewhat ‘cold’ as it only had a single occupant currently. It is however amazing how big the place is and how the ceiling is. There are a number of large paintings on either side as your move towards the alter and then a number of smaller chapels on either side of the mail alter.

Interestingly, this basilica is home to the Eucharist Miracle of Siena which is something I didn’t know before visiting this church.

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With the clock approaching 10am it was time to head back to the Campo and for the tower or Torre del Mangia which stands about 80 metres and height and can be climbed via stairs.

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The advice before you start climbing is to only take a camera and be prepared for about 400 steps in a pretty enclosed space. What is not probably mentioned is the fact that you come down the same you go up, this means you need to negotiate other on the stairs as you pass. Luckily for me, being one of the first into the tower for the day it just meant plodding up the stairs.

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The first level you emerge on provides sweeping view of Siena and the surrounds.

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Another flight of stairs takes you an other 20 metres or so right to the very top where the bell is.

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Here you get a real perspective of just how ‘compacted’ old Siena is, with buildings pretty much adjacent to each other.

I descended from the top,making room for a few people on their way up. Some people just don’t seem to appreciate that 400+ stairs is fairly strenuous.

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I then headed into the Civic Museum which was also included in the price of my ticket. Unfortunately, photography was once again forbidden here, although I did see some people merrily snapping away, even using a flash! Damm tourists!

With the temperature rising and the tourist throngs building and given it was approaching midday I decided it would be a good time to take a break from the heat, so I took the short walk back to my hotel.

It being so central makes it a very handy place to visit multiple times during the day. I had hoped that my room would be made up so I could take a shower, but alas that wasn’t to be. I therefore cooled down and had a snooze in the lobby.

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I then headed back to the Duomo and the other sites in and around this area.

You need to but tickets to the Duomo from an office not far away but a little bit od advice, don’t leave buying tickets too late in the afternoon as in summer the sun ends up beating down on you standing the queue. Get in early, even if you decide to take in the locations later in the day.

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Like all great cathedrals, the Duomo of Siena is something to behold. The most striking aspect is the striping of the structure.

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It is truly an impressive structure with so much space.

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In an alcove off the to the side is the Piccolomini library with stunning examples of artwork on the walls and ceiling as well as manuscripts that line the wall.

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Off to the left is the chapel of St John the Baptist.

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 which also contains the holy relic of his right arm presented by Pope Pius II in 1464 to the church.

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From the cathedral I proceeded to the crypt.

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and then to the Baptistery, both at the lower levels of the Duomo.

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It was then back to the main Duomo for a tour over the top of the structure where you can peer down from the dome.

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You also get access to external areas where you again get some great views of Siena at roof level.

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You then move across the top of the altar where you get a full view of the length of the structure.

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You then travel back towards the front of the church and finish off with a view down the length from just above the entrance.

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From there you wind your back down to the ground. All in all a very worthwhile tour that I’d recommend.

It was now mid afternoon and things were really starting to heat up so I decided to again head back to the comfort of my air conditioned hotel and escape the fierce Tuscan summer sun.

I headed back onto the street at 7pm with the heat of the day still radiating through the streets. I headed to the Campo for a final look, a gelato and finally a decent large coffee (an Americano as they say here).

Tomorrow I brave the heat and the Italian railways again as I head to Florence (Firenze). All in all I have enjoyed my time here in Siena. It is a very beautiful and historic place. The view of the surrounds is amazing along with some pretty unique places in the town centre. It has been a little disappointing at how hot it has been, exacerbated no doubt by the lack of a cooling breeze. The best times to venture out is early but unfortunately most places don’t open until it is becoming quite hot.

None the less, I’ve been very lucky with the fine weather as well as a great hotel. Having it so close by has really made it easy to take regular breaks during the day and avoid being totally worn out. The journey continues tomorrow.